In today’s world, where people are becoming increasingly health-conscious, the food you eat is often considered a marker of how healthy you are. Organic whole foods and fresh produce are marketed as the only sources of healthy food, while processed foods are seen as slow poison that destroys our bodies.
But while food processing and preservation on an industrial scale using preservatives to prolong shelf life is a recent development, organic food preservation and processing have been practised by mankind for thousands of years. It arose out of a need not only to preserve food for leaner seasons but also to enhance flavour and nutritional value through the preservation process.
Backed by traditional knowledge and experimental science, some of the best-known organic preservation methods of food come from indigenous communities worldwide and the communities of Meghalaya stand as no exception to this.
Here is a look at two unique food preservation methods from Meghalaya that have been practised for generations and have, over time, become a cultural identity of the indigenous communities of the state.
Thangbuli village’s Kharang (Smoked Fish)
If you’ve ever bought smoked fish or Kharang (in the local Khasi language) from local fairs in Shillong or at local markets in Iew Jowai and Iew Musiang, chances are, the fish were smoked at Thangbuli village in West Jaintia Hills.
A young Bah Meyo Tariang, who is just 28 years old, is one of five individuals from Thangbuli village who have perfected the delicate craft of smoking fish. The unique tradition of smoking fish, originally started by his grandmother, is an important part of their family’s heritage and has been passed down for more than five decades. In 2021, the family’s enterprise was officially registered under the name Niwanroi Smoked Fish Enterprise by his sister, Kong Niwanroi Tariang, who later passed on the responsibility to Bah Meyo owing to her commitments as a teacher.
Bah Meyo shares that he sources most of his fish from Andhra Pradesh due to the lack of adequate supplies of Rohu fish within the state. The preserving process starts with a thorough cleaning and washing of the fish. Then, thin bamboo skewers locally known as thning are inserted through the fish. The fish are then smoked for approximately four hours before they are packed and sold at prices ranging from ₹250 to ₹300 per piece, depending on the size of the fish, in local markets.
The smoked fish, packed with flavour, are often shredded and used as a flavour enhancer in salads. According to Bah Meyo, the tradition of smoked fish preparation is currently practised in only two villages in the Jaintia Hills region – Thangbuli and Umladkhur – making it a unique and culturally significant livelihood activity.
Pasyih’s renowned Tungrymbai (Fermented Soybean)
Fermented soybean, locally called Tungrymbai, is one of the smelliest yet tastiest foods enjoyed in many Asian countries. The Japanese call it natto, the Thais know it as thua nao, the Nagas refer to it as akhuni or axone, the Khasi and Jaintia Indigenous communities of Meghalaya affectionately call it tungrymbai or tungtoh, while the Garos know it as dodim. And while the method of preparation and taste may differ for these many variants of the fermented soybeans, they’re all loved for their protein-packed, umami-rich flavour.
In Meghalaya’s West Jaintia Hills district, Pasyih village is famous for its huge production and quality of Tungrymbai. Most of the community members of Pasyih have been practising fermentation of Tungrymbai as a source of livelihood. The Tungrymbai from the village is mainly sold in Jowai and nearby markets such as Shangpung and Khliehriat at 100–150 per kilogram, while the variety cooked with black sesame fetches a higher price, from 120–200 per kilo.
The preparation of the Tungrymbai begins with boiling the soybeans for 12 to 13 hours until they become soft and tender. Once cooked, the beans are drained using a traditional strainer known locally as shalani. The drained soybeans are then transferred into a woven basket lined with the leaves of a locally grown plant called ferns. The basket is then covered with a jute sack and is left undisturbed for two days, allowing the natural fermentation process to begin.
After two days, the beans are gently turned to ensure an even fermentation throughout the batch. They are then left to ferment for another night to develop their distinctive aroma, texture, and deep umami flavour. On the third day, the fermented beans are pounded using a traditional wooden mortar and pestle before being mixed with turmeric, which adds both colour and subtle earthy notes to the flavour.
Pasyih’s Tungrymbai is known for its especially strong, pungent, and umami-rich flavour, reflecting generations of indigenous knowledge in fermentation, sustainable food practices and communal way of life.
Every smoked fish and every batch of Tungrymbai carries generations of knowledge, patience, and care. In a world searching for more sustainable ways to produce and consume food, Meghalaya’s indigenous food traditions show that some of the best solutions have existed all along.
